Category Archives: digital editing

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Photo editing tips for dog and cat photos done in Photoshop and Lightroom. Tips on how to make images look better after they come out of the camera. How to edit dog and cat photography, step by step.

a typical Cowbelly ‘before and after’

I’m currently working on portfolio reviews, and one of the questions I get asked most often is: “what do you normally do when you edit your photos?”. My stock answer is “it depends”. It depends on what the photo looks like, where it was taken, what the exposure is like (good or bad), what colors it contains, and what ‘look’ or style I’m trying to achieve.  But as far as answers go, I can do better than that. So I bring you, my ‘typical’ before and after. i.e. what I ‘normally’ do to a photo using Lightroom and Photoshop.

Before and after:

The before photo of miss Zen was underexposed, as many of my photos are. So the steps I took in Lightroom involved fixing the exposure, removing that ugly grey haze that all digital photos have, and making it ‘pop’. FYI: for those who are new- I use Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 3 for about 98% of my digital editing, and shoot exclusively in RAW.

LIGHTROOM 3:

Exposure: +1.00 (this is a pretty strong adjustment! Ideally I don’t like to add more than about a half stop of increased exposure with software, but I’m shooting in RAW so the file here can handle it).

Recovery: 6 (I only ever do this on shots that have blown out highlights, which I usually prefer to fix either by adjusting exposure or brightness or using the adjustment brush and lowering the exposure on select areas. Going too heavy on recovery makes an image look muddy and gross).

Fill light: 20 (I’m always pretty heavy handed with this as I always like to add blacks back in)

Blacks: 11 (I usually do somewhere between 8-12. This can go a long way in making an image ‘pop’. Blacks + brightness on a RAW file = love.)

Brightness: +75. (I usually try and use brightness first before exposure, because increasing the exposure can blow your highlights out, while increasing brightness preserves them, but here I knew I needed some extreme brightening, so I used both).

Clarity: +20. (I always try and use a light hand here and only add between +7 to +14 if necessary, because it can make a shot look really gritty if too strong a setting is applied. But here it’s great for the graffiti, and if I had more time I’d use the adjustment brush and paint on +100 clarity on the graffiti only to really make it pop).

Tone curve: darks: -21. I swear this is my default setting for 95% of my images. lol

HSL (love these sliders!!). Saturation: blue: +25, purple: +50. Luminance: blue: -54, purple: -23. I did this to keep the vibrance in those colors without affecting the vibrance of the overall image.

Sharpening: amount: 41, Radius: 1.0 (default), detail: 25 (default), masking: 0 (default).

Adjustment brush: I did selective adjustments on Zen’s face to clone out junk, because she had some goopies around her eye and some dandruff in her fur (oh the shame!). Lightroom’s automatic adjustments do an amazing job, and I rarely need to change the area they are selecting from. Thank you Lighroom. I love you.

PHOTOSHOP CS5:

Sharpening: smart sharpen: amount: 48, radius: 0.8. My sharpening is usually between 0.8-1.4 for radius, and 35-72 or so for amount, depending on what my output is (you always want to sharpen for output). I always use smart sharpen, because I’ve used every plug-in and action in the book, and have always been happiest with smart sharpen. Also, I sharpened twice here (once in Lighroom and once in PSCS5), because I’m not entirely happy with Lightroom’s sharpening results. It’s an ‘ok’ place to start out with using a subtle adjustment like I did here, but for great sharpening, nothing beats photoshop, IMHO.

That’s it! I try and keep my editing as simple as possible these days, because I find that the more I fiddle with it, the less natural the results are.

Hope that helps someone out there. Happy editing! :-)

 

low-key + high-key dog images | high-key photography

Some new ‘experiments’. Just for fun.

Several photographers have asked me how I do these. There is no one easy answer because there are about 100 different ways you can create these shots. No, ‘click here and bam!’, simple trick. What I can tell you is that they are all done exclusively using Lightroom 2, they are *not* designed using develop presets, and each image takes approximately 10 minutes to design, depending on how ornery it’s being. I only pick shots that I know will work well for the process- ideally those with a solid color background that is a color that doesn’t occur anywhere on the dog, a shot that will look great with high contrast. This takes being able to ‘see’ what the image will look like as a completed design before doing any editing. Without being able to visualize the completed image before starting I just waste my time working on image after image after image.

Once I find the perfect shots to work with, I just play with sliders and make changes until it looks cool, adding lots of black and contrast, keeping the color in the image and adjusting select colors. It’s all about experimenting, tweaking, adjusting, learning. I’m pretty sure that every image I’ve done this with has completely different editing settings, because the ‘raw material’ of the original image for each shot is different, and those differences determine the outcome. Oh, and the high-key images were all taken in my old studio using only natural light and were easy to make high-key as they were almost there already.

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Fix me please!

Wow, sorry I’ve been blogging so infrequently lately everyone. I am *still* trying to get my new house in order. I have to get my house stuff done by this Saturday, which is both my 38th birthday and my housewarming party. After that I am getting back to shooting (finally), and promise some super fun images very soon!

This will be the first in an ongoing series on image processing called ‘fix me please!’, where I feature an image that needs some work, with step by step details of what I would do to it in Photoshop.

In my in-person consultations with photography clients I often find myself editing their images as we sit side-by-side in front of the computer. The feedback I have received from these clients is that it really helps them to see what I would do with THEIR images. It’s pretty fun for me too! Please keep in mind here I edit my images to please my clients, so I keep the owner of that particular pet in mind while editing. :-)

This photo belongs to my dear workshops + portfolio review client Karen Denmark, selected with her permission (thanks Karen!). She took this photo of Millie during our workshop in Austin last year, and I thought it was really cute, but just needed a little bit of ‘tweaking’.

Original. Sweet expression, but too dark, some distracting elements and colors, and not enough detail.

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The first thing I did was play with curves, to bring the midtones up without blowing out the highlights. I ‘grabbed’ the middle of the curve (the straight line) and pulled it up to the left until it looked good, then adjusted the lower left part of the line (the darks) and the upper right part of the line (the lights). I was then able to tweak the blacks back to a nice rich tone. Lightening and darkening with curves provides a more sophisticated and natural look and nicer contrast than using shadow/highlight or levels. Using curves is actually a lot easier than you’d think. You can read more about it here.

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Ok, so now that I’ve got the exposure where I want it, it’s pretty much done, right? Not quite.

There are a few things that are bugging me. The first one is the blue color (I think those are pants legs?) in the background on the left. All of the colors in this shot are warm, and the blue stands out to me. Given that it’s a blurry background element, I don’t want any of the focus on the blue, so it has got to go. Sorry blue, nothin personal!

Here I use my Wacom pen tool (indespensable for editing), and select an area of dark red above and next to the jeans. (Note: if you don’t have a graphics tablet you can still do this with your mouse.) I feathered the selection out to around 6px, then went to ‘edit’ ‘copy’, then ‘paste’ over the blue area. I then adjusted the opacity in the layers palette to make it look more natural. I did this several times, copying and pasting, and flattening layers, and then cloned the area next to the ear with a small soft brush (17px-ish) to complete the removal of the blue. It’s hard to clone areas that have a gradient (where the colors blend from light to dark), which is why I chose the copy/paste route. You can actually still see a teensy line of blue next to her ear, which I would want to fix, cause I’m a perfectionist like that. Oh, I should also note that in this type of situation, it’s really helpful if you are cloning, to lower the opacity of your cloning brush to somewhere between 65%-89%. This gives you a wider margin for error, and produces a more natural look.

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Cool. Now the distracting blue is gone. So what else is bugging me? Well, Millie’s ‘white’ fur, which doesn’t look white to me. It looks, I don’t know, green? Grey? I can’t tell. All I know is it looks dingy and I don’t like it. Yucky dingy doggie fur. So what I did below is I used my pen and lasso selection tool and hand selected the white fur on Millie’s face (you can also use the magic wand tool to select the fur). I then went to ‘image’,  ’adjustments’, ‘hue/saturation’, and greatly saturated my selection, then stared at it for a minute before returning the saturation settings to 0. Doing this enabled me to see exactly what colors I was dealing with. In this case, cyan is the culprit. I was close with my guess of green, right? Oh yeahh baby, whose the man? Wait, I’m a woman. Oh nevermind.

So with my selection still selected, and the ‘hue/saturation’ box still open, I selected ‘cyan’ from the drop-down and desaturated dramatically. While it was definitely better, it still didn’t look quite right to me, so then, while the area I wanted was still selected, I went to ‘image’, ‘adjustments’, and ‘photo filter’. I experimented with the warm photo filters, until I found one I liked. In this case I think I used the 2nd warming filter, the more yellowish one (LBA) and dropped the density way down to around 6%. You can also use this ‘saturate/desaturate/photo filter’ trick on fur that has gone too blue or orange, or tongues or lips & noses that have gone purple.

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I knew from the beginning that I wanted the focus to be on Millie’s eyes in this shot. I mean, look how cute she is. But first, I wanted to sharpen the overall image just a teeny bit. So I went to ‘filter’, ‘sharpen’, ‘smart sharpen’. (I have used every sharpening trick in the book, including the most popular sharpening actions- you know the ones, and also know how to do high-pass sharpening, and even have a high-pass sharpen action of my own I designed, and always come back to smart sharpen). The settings I generally use are radius 1.5px, then amount is anywhere between around 24 up to 135 for a very strong effect. It’s usually in the 45-85px range. Here it was light, around 27-35px. Reason being is that I’m not personally a fan of super sharp images. They feel weirdly intimate to me, like I’m looking into a scene that I shouldn’t be looking at. Like, ‘too’ real. Like the opposite of film. They make me feel like a voyeur. And sometimes I think they might just end up looking ‘trendy’. But that’s my problem. If you like sharp- sharpen away! ;-)

Ok, so I used this sharpening overall. THEN, for the piece-de-resistance, my favorite part, I selected Millie’s eyes and nose with my lasso, and went back to ‘smart sharpen’. Only this time I used it backwards. For radius I chose 30px, and amount I chose 20px. Doing this really made her eyes pop and deepen her nose. I should note here that doing this also adds a bit of sharpening at the same time, so I usually do this *before* sharpening the rest of the photo (I did overall sharpening here first because I already knew what the ‘blend’ would look like). The result is what you see here below. Also, keep in mind that the best sharpening is done with the output in mind (web, print at 100dpi, print at 300dpi, etc). You can read more about sharpening here.

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And voila, the best part- the before and after! Some simple tricks you can use to take your images from ‘tossers’ to ‘keepers’. This is why I teach to focus on expressions over technical perfection in the beginning (ultimately with more practice and skill you want to nail both). Expressions can’t be faked, but you can create a lovely saleable photo in photoshop that your client will adore. And in the end, when you are a professional photographer and selling photography for a living, when it comes to editing/processing, the clients are all that matter!

What would you have done differently? What fun quick tips and tricks do you have that you’d like to share?

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the power of lightroom (and photoshop)

most of the editing on this image was done in LR2, with the exception of some touch-up cloning and adjustment layer masks in PSCS3 to bring the catchlights in the eyes up. Otherwise, major cloning, color, cropping, contrast and everything else was all Lightroom, which is pretty impressive, because anyone who has tried to clone blue sky knows it’s nearly impossible. It’s pretty amazing what software can do.

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